Samoa

But Samoa's varied landscape is a wonder too, with everything from white sandy beaches, to plummeting waterfalls, underground lava tubes and mountainous rainforest.

Samoa is made up of two main islands. Savai'i, the larger, is more rugged and less populated. Apia, the capital, is sited on the smaller island of Upolo.

People have lived in Samoa for 3,000 years and Samoans are now the most numerous full-blooded Polynesian race in the world. That may be one reason for the continued vigour of their cultural heritage - Fa'a Samoa, the Samoan way.

Robert Louis Stevenson moved here with his family in the 1890s and was buried as a chief when he died.

Apia is a bustling town with a surprising range of shopping, eating and entertainment options.

Visit some of the dozen or more handicraft shops around town - basket ware, wood and shell carvings, Tanoa (kava) bowls, woven bags, mats, siapo (tapa cloth), shell ula (leis), are some of the best in the Pacific.

There are also several art galleries featuring modern Samoan artwork and the Museum of Samoa showcasing the islands' history and culture. And visit the observatory to stargaze through the crystal-clear Pacific sky.

No one does entertainment better than the Samoans. Fiafia nights, held during the week at the major hotels, include traditional song and dance displays with huge and delicious traditional buffets.

Celebrations are important in Samoa. Year long there's a full schedule of events and festivals - royal, historical, sporting or religious. Visitors are almost always welcome.

Nature's best

Animals you might glimpse on one of the well run eco or trekking tours include flying foxes, exotic birds, skinks and geckos.

While cruising, snorkelling or scuba diving in the surrounding ocean, look out for dolphins, whales, porpoises and sea turtles. 900 fish species swim among over 200 coral varieties in the reefs.

Savai'I, rugged and intriguing - untouched Savai'i and as well as pristine, almost deserted white sand beaches, you'll find an exotic landscape of volcanic craters, lava fields, gorges and blowholes.

Don't leave without seeing the enormous green sea turtles at Satoalepai village. Guides will show you the turtles they've rescued and raised for releasing back into the wild.

Savai'i is also home to the Tia Seu ancient mound, a stepped pyramid made of piled local volcanic stone. At 12m tall it is the largest ancient structure in Polynesia. Archaeological digs suggest that Tia Seu was a large and sophisticated centre in prehistoric times.

The Samoan culture, "Fa'a Samoa" has a strong focus on welcoming visitors. However, it is important you follow protocol when you enter villages and use village resources, including beaches. Your resort will brief you on behaviour, dress and modesty codes.

What's the weather like?

Things you must see and do in Samoa

• Visit the Robert Louis Stevenson museum.
• Enjoy a Fiafia night. Bring your dancing shoes and an appetite!
• Wonder at Te Seu, Samoa's own 'Stonehenge'.
• Get up close with the giant sea turtles at the Auala conservancy. It'll change your life.
• Choose some gorgeous Samoan handicrafts from a market or craft shop.

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